Sunday, April 24, 2016

Batanes : Sabtang Island Overnight Getaway

My Ultimate 8-Day Batanes adventure continues...

It is a no-no not to visit Sabtang Island when you are in Batanes.  For our 4th day here in Batanes, this is what I am excited about.  

Our wake-up call was at 5:00 A.M.  We left at 6:00 A.M. to travel to Radiwan Port in Ivana.  We were so worried about the waves after what we have heard from our previous group who was at Sabtang the other day. But, hooray!  The water was calm. At 6:30 A.M., we are off to ride the famous Faluwa.  Faluwa is a traditional Ivatan boat built without outriggers. But It can withstand the often rough waters of the Pacific Ocean and the West Philippine Sea.

At 7:00 A.M.  Hello Sabtang Island!
In Sabtang, you get to see the traditional villages of Savidug and Chavayan. These barangays are mostly untouched that some are century-old stone houses. We are so excited to explore these towns.  

Just a few steps from the port is the Tourism Center where every tourist needs to register first before exploring the island. 
The Conscience Cafe & Souvenirs is a shop managed by their Parish Priest. He sells their trademark goodies, the Bukayo and the Pulvoron which have a Malunggay & Turmeric flavors.  Some of the proceeds of the store is for the Children Scholars whom the church sponsors.  Get your "Pasalubong" from this shop and for sure you can help the Children Scholars of Sabtang. 
We headed to Savitug Village. Their century-old houses have walls that are a meter thick which is made of cobblestones or coral rocks and limestone. The roofs are made of layers and layers of Cogon.  Some of the windows and doors are painted blue or green which are the colors of the sea.  The paint is actually left over from their boats. 
At the end of the road in Sinakan, is the "beaterio" which is a popular spot for photo ops. Beside it, is the Sto. Tomas Aquinas Church where locals held their meetings. They usually put a notice at the Church`s door if there will be a house to build.  They go in the spirit of "Bayanihan".  With one representative in every family, one will get everyone’s help in building a house.
On the way to the next stop, we had a view of the Savidug Idiang.  Idiangs are pre-colonial settlements of the ancient Ivatans.  There is also one in Batan. 
 At Chamantad-Tinan, one can view the panoramic Sabtang Coast.  You can trek from the hills to get a nice view of the beach.  But be careful at the edges of the hill because the wind is always strong in this area.

Sta. Rosa De Lima Chapel is the only chapel that remains roofed with cogon grass. 
At Lunch time, we ate at Savitug’s Catering located at Morong Beach.  We are served with Turmeric Rice, Seaweed Soup, Lunis, Kalabasa & Sitaw, Uved, and Flying Fish and a sweet potato dessert. 
Right after lunch, we stroll around Morong Beach. It is famous because of the natural arch rock formation that they call, the Nakabuang Arch. 
Our guide also took us to the site where the Ivatans cooked the coral stones they used for the stone houses.  It is now prohibited to use corals.
For the regular Day Tour at Sabtang, this ends here. But since we are taking an overnight at one of the stone houses in Chavayan, we have enough time to explore the rest of Sabtang.

We prearranged a tour by tricycool.  We went to the other two villages that is not included in the Day Tour Package. We went to Sumnanga and Nakanmuan. Here are some of the highlights of our tricycool ride.  We explored their fishing village and bought some dried flying fish.  We also bought spanish breads and pandecoco for our quick snacks.

We also had our own piece of paradise at Sabtang.  This jaw-dropping view is all ours!  Who can resist that pristine blue water, that white sand, that perfect weather.  We take the plunge! 
We stayed at a century-old stone house at Chavayan.  We were the only ones to sleep there that night. Electricity is out from 12:00 midnight to 6:00 in the morning. They will provide a rechargeable lamp but since I am a girl scout,  we used my solar lamp all though out the night. 

While we were waiting for dinner, we took a shower at their small comfort room.  No hot shower.  It is spring water so be ready for some jumps.  The typical Ivatan stone-houses have their kitchens and comfort rooms built separately outside their homes. It is a must to have a flashlight handy here in Sabtang. The house is just across where the coliseum is.  It is where they held their town's programs, baseball games, etc.  It is quite a small place.  Earlier, when it was not yet dark, several children were practicing baseball with their coach.  When it got dark, the neighbors were outside chit-chatting the night away.   

We also prearranged our dinner.  We ordered some lobsters but they were not sure if they can find one since it was not in season. They searched the village and we had four lobsters. It was not that big but one lobster was good enough for one person. They also served an uved soup with malunggay.
Life is still simple in these areas as if you are back in time.  We hope the locals keep their village the way it is.



A SHORT STORY : THE BOY NAMED DOMINIC
We went to a sari-sari store to buy some cans of corned beef since we are craving for it for the past 2 days. The store was just some houses away. A familiar voice of a young boy greeted us in the dark with a "Good Evening, Ma'am".  It was Dominic.  He was the boy we met at the Chavayan view point's souvenir/honesty shop.  He was making jokes at Bougs, one of our tour mates.  I said, "Ang cute ng batang yan!" When I saw his dimples.  And Bougs said , "Aantayin ko nga yan lumaki." And the store was filled with laughter. 

Dominic asked where Bougs is. He thought he was with us since we were together earlier in the tour.  But they had arranged an overnight at the lighthouse together with the couple, Fritz & Francis.  The couple who wears pink couple shirts and fond doing non-stop photo op like some prenup shots. They were cute anyway.

We invited Dominic to have a chat with us, in the hut, in front of the coliseum, just across our stone house.  We found out he lives just some houses away. The store where we bought the corned beef owned by her aunt. From him, we found out that the people there wakes up at 4am and do their usual chores. Cooking, pasturing, etc. That the coliseum is where they held their programs, games, and practices. We come to ask about the movie "You`re my Boss" staring Coco Martin & Sarah Geronimo which was shoot there. He said that Coco Martin wants to bring him to Manila.  There is also a foreigner who wants to bring him to the U.S.  We asked where his parents are.  He said that his dad is in Sabtang while his mom is in Batan.  He seems to be a bright & cheerful kid.  We invited him to dinner but he insisted he already had his meal.  So he left when the dinner is served. 
After dinner, the landlady said that Dominic was reprimanded by their barangay captain and was told to go home.  She said that Dominic is the only boy in Sabtang that dropped-out of school.  But he mentioned to us that he is still studying.  His father is in Sabtang just like what he said. But is living with his new family.  His mom is in Batan and have her new family, too.  While Dominic lives with her Aunt and Lola.  We were saddened by the truth about Dominic. He lied to us.  I cannot blame him for not telling the truth about himself.  With his very young age, he wants to have a family that he can call his own.  Whenever he is asked about where his parents are, he lives in a fantasy that he will come home to his mom and dad.  We left the Island at 430 A.M. And we have not seen Dominic again.  

With a sad heart, I left that beautiful island.  I wish to see Dominic again to give him a hug and whisper to him, " You are a fine little man in your own special way.  You will come to those places that you dream about, because YOU will make your dreams come true.  I believe in you." 

That`s the story of Dominic, the only boy in Sabtang who dropped out of school.

Saturday, April 16, 2016

Batanes : South Batan Gateaway

My Ultimate 8-Day Batanes adventure continues...


For our third day, Bisumis’s Tours & Services' South Batan Tour started at 9:00 AM. BISUMI which stands for Basco, Itbayat, Sabtang, Uyugan, Mahatao and Ivana are the towns in Batanes.  This whole day activity covers Uyugan, Mahatao & Ivana.

Our first stop was at Chawa View Deck located at the west coast of Mahatao facing the West Philippine Sea.  It is the best site for sunset viewing. There are benches where you can sit and relax or you can take the stairs down the rocky shore.
Next stop was at Mahatao Boat Shelter Port. It was built in 2007 to protect the fishing and passenger vessels from damage in case of bad weather conditions.
The San Carlos Borromeo Church or Mahatao Church was declared a National Cultural treasure in 2001.  It is where the Maywang A Libro Du Vatan or the Batanes Blank Book Archive is located.  You can pay an entrance fee of P50 and you are free to write your thoughts on the blank pages of any book.
Mahatao Spanish Lighthouse or Tayid Lighthouse is a modern structure built in 2000.  It is not functional since it does not have complete facilities.  It serves as a tourist attraction with the panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean and other parts of the Batan Island . They say it is the only octagonal lighthouse in Batanes. But the truth is, it is hexagonal.
At Lunch time, we ate at Paulvanna’s Catering located at Marlboro Country. You can freshen up and change your outfit after that sweaty stroll on the hills and after that tiring jump shots.
Racuh-A-Payaman is a protected location in the island of Batan.  Anyone can shot some awesome photos even if you are not a professional photographer beacause the place is imcredibly beautiful.  Dubbed as the "Marlboro Country" by Tourists, Racuh-A-Payaman makes you wonder if you really are in the Philippines.
Our next destination was at House of Dakay.  This is perhaps the most photographed Stone House in Batanes.  The residents of this house have a vakul for rent. If you want a photograph wearing it, you can pay P10 for rental fee.  A Vakul is a native women’s headgear that is Abacca fiber-made for sunlight and rain protection.  They also sell some souvenir items like ref magnets, keychains, t-shirts, etc.
The most famous man-made tourist attraction in Batanes is the Honesty Coffee Shop.  The uniqueness of its store concept is what makes it famous.  Customers log down what item they bought and the price.  Exact payment is then placed at the cash box.  If you happen to have a change, consider it as a tip.  This business concept is being replicated in many housing lodges in Batanes.
San Jose de Ivana Church is one of the most preserved churches in the region. It is said that Filipino revolutionaries waved the Katipunan flag in the church's bell tower on September 18, 1898. Today, ruins of the abandoned portion of the church can still be seen.
Uyugan has the most number of intact stone houses in Batan Island.  That is why the The Uyugan Church or the San Antonio De Florencia is also relatively intact. This is the smallest church we have been to. It is one of the churches you should not miss in Batanes.  
The Ruins at Sitio Song-song is what remains of the baranggay when a Tsunami slapped Batanes in 1954. We were not able to get down at the site because of extreme heat.  It is advisable to bring your hats or cap for this tour.
Our Lady of Miraculous Medal  is also a small church in Itbud. Walking around in this town feels like you are back in time.
The Alapad Hills and Rock Formation is one of the magnificent tourist destinations in the Batan Island. Actually, It is my favorite site . With the view of the curvy hills, rock formation and the Pacific Ocean. No doubt, every angle would be picture perfect. The scenic road cliffs of Imnajbu is definitely a WOW!

It is also the place where the famous scene from the 1991 movie "Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit" by Dawn Zulueta and Richard Gomez.  You can mimic their "I-Dawn Zulueta mo ko" move with your loved one.
The ruins of the old USCG LO-RAN Station (Long Range Naval Station) was the center of what used to be Little America during the American era.
Imnajbu is considered the birthplace of Christianity in Batanes. It is in San Lorenzo Chapel where the first holy mass and baptism were celebrated.  Lying right across the San Lorenzo Chapel in Imnajbu is a sand-and-shingle beach where locals obtain the stones they use for their homes. 


At 5:30 P.M. we were back at Amboy's and enjoyed the awesome sunset at the beach just across the road.
We had our dinner at Amboy's.  We ordered ahead of time. Finally, we had our coconut crab or locally known as "Tatus".  We also tried their Sweet & Sour Lapu-Lapu which you should definitely try! The best Sweet & Sour Lapu-Lapu I've ever tasted is here at Amboy's.
After dinner, we went to see our group for a dessert at Octagon. Octagon is the only establishment that closes late at night.  They have a good wifi connection, too. Tambay mode on whenever we are there.


We had a nice bonding with our tour group, asking everyone about life and love and work. 


It was Cha's birthday that day.  She  will be working abroad right after this trip.  She shared her "walang forever" love story.  She was with a friend named Nats, who seems reserved & shy.


One "couple" who we fondly called Basha & Popo are also leaving the island that next morning.  Well, they are just friends they say. They are friends who travel together for the first time...with a past. 

Then the Tres Marias.  Ms. Ellen and Ms. Evelyn are sisters while Ms. Luz is Ms. Evelyn's bestfriend. We caught them taking pictures of us in our "buwis-buhay" selfies. Whenever I looked at them,I am seeing ourselves, five or more years from now. We might still be travelling together, making good memories & sharing experiences.It was nice to be with this group.
I will be posting our next adventure which is the Overnight Tour at Sabtang Island very soon. Dios Mamajes, Batanes!




Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Batanes : North Batan Getaway

Batanes has always been my dream destination. Well, I bet it is everyone’s dream destination, too.  For me, the dream has finally come true!  My husband finally agreed for my trip!  I booked my flight right away via Skyjet Airways.  I always have this date on my mind.  I want to celebrate my birthday there. And I want it to be a weeklong stay.  Oh, I just could not contain my excitement!  For the past 13 years, most of my travels are with my husband and with our two boys. "This is it, Inday! May bakasyon ka na!" My mind screams as I made my airline booking! Nanginginig pa! Hahaha

When two of my friends found out that my Batanes trip is set on March 14-21, they did not hesitate to come with me.  I booked their flights with glee!  This is going to be an epic adventure with my girls!  Joan is a busy online seller, will be also be travelling for the first time without her husband and kids. Grace, who is single but busy to mingle, is an overworked events' organizer for companies.  This vacation is definitely for us! 

With only less than 3 weeks of preparation, I went totally crazy booking our accommodations since this is already a peak season.  Of course, not everything went smoothly.  I had a hard time making calls and e-mails from different resorts, lodges & inns.

But to make the story short... here is the itinerary I made. And my 8-day ultimate adventure begins as my "Life begins".


Day1
Our flight was via Skyjet Airways, departed at 6:00AM and arrived at 7:15AM. Skyjet Airways flies only once a day, same with Philippine Airlines.  Wakay Air, the new airline that flies to Basco, had their first flight last March 29. This gives a chance for more tourists to see the breathtaking soil of Batanes. 


It was a gloomy morning as we land with slight rains showers.  I expected this kind of weather since I checked the weather forecast the night before our departure. We will have to wait for Mr. Sun to peek and greet us in the afternoon.
We were greeted with a sign board by Amboy’s Hometel staff since their accommodation rate includes round trip transfers.  Amboy’s Hometel which is located along the National Highway is approximately 5 minutes from the airport, and gives a good sea view.  They have a restaurant, a souvenir shop & bikes for rent, too.  But their mountain bikes are not made of alloy so it is quite heavy.  I would recommend mountain bikes made of alloy if you want to explore Batanes by biking.


It will be our home for four days.  We got a triple sharing room for P3,000/night that also includes breakfast.  They provide towels and  complete toiletries  per person. They also clean  the  room  &  replenishes  the toiletries everyday. They do not have a laundry service but you can let your wet clothes hung at the back of their restaurant.   Upon arrival,  we were  offered to have our breakfast.  We had coffee & tapsilog (tapasinangag & itlog) with sweet potato sticks.  It was the best sweet potato we ever tasted! Since our tour will start at 12:00 noon, there's ample time to take a nap and get energized. 
We had our welcome lunch at Vunong Dinette. They served traditional Ivatan cuisine in set meals.  The turmeric or yellow rice, fried flying fish, pork lunis or deep fried lightly salted pork, uved balls or meatballs with grated banana pith and bistek tagalong, are all wrapped in breadfruit leaf.  They also served beef nilaga and tamidok salad or fresh young fern topped with tomatoes.  And of course, the yummy glazed sweet potato. Yummy!
At 2:00PM, we started our North Batan Tour. We were ten in the van with four groups of tourists.  Our first stop was at Mt. Carmel Chapel,   also known as Tukon Chapel. “Tukon” means mountain in Ivatan.  It is situated on a hill and was built by the Abad Family & nearby communities so they will not go far to hear mass.   Its design was based on the traditional Ivatan houses and paintings were done by well-skilled Ivatanan artists. This chapel is perfect for couples who want a romantic and intimate wedding.Just a short walk from the chapel is the PAGASA Weather Station, also known as Tukon Weather Station.  It was a lighthouse before the Americans used it as weather station.  The view was just breathtaking.  The seascape of the West Philippine Sea & the Pacific Ocean is perfect background for our selfies and groupies.Our next stop was at Idjang Didawud.  It is an ancient Ivatan fortress where it served as a look-out point to protect them from invaders.  This area is not accessible to tourists. Next stop was at Dipnaysuhuan Japanese Tunnel.  The Japanese soldiers ordered the Ivatans to make this tunnel.  It was made through their sweat & blood.  It has five chambers, a bunker and a water reservoir.  You will need your mobile phone’s flashlight for it is very dark inside.The Valugan Boulder Beach has no sand, only boulders which were spewed by the nearby volcano, Mt.Iraya. This is the perfect viewing spot for the sunrise for it resides in the east. The Cathedral of Basco is also known as the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.  It was the oldest church in Batanes built by the Dominican missionaries.  August 8 is the feast day of  Sto. Domingo De Guzman, their patron saint.  If you want to witness their town fiesta, try booking at this date.
Oh, Batanes! You always take our breaths away especially with your Vayang Rolling Hills.  The green grass and the deep blue sea are the sights to behold.  Get your grip!  The wind at this hill is so strong.  Keep your balance or else you will know why it is called Rolling Hills.


Basco Lighthouse is located at Naidi Hills.  The green hills and open sea is a nice backdrop for the lighthouse.  The place can be easily reached by 1.2-km. hike from Basco Port.  It is the perfect location to view the whole Batan Island. The Sabtang Island in the South, the Itbayat Island to the North and Mt. Iraya is definitely a total package. There is a small souvenir shop inside the lighthouse where you can buy hats, magnets, keychains, t-shirts, etc. 

The Bunker’s Cafe was the area where the American telegraph facilities are located.  Unfortunately, Bunker’s Cafe is now closed for business.
The Tour ended at around 6:00 PM.  Unfortunately, Mr. Sun just glanced at us that afternoon.  It rained that whole evening. For our first dinner, we reserved at Pension Ivatan.  We have to try their famous Ivatan Platter.  Unfortunately, coconut crabs & lobsters were not available.  We end up ordering their Batanes Flavor, a platter of Inihaw na Liempo, Inihaw na Pusit, Beef Tapa, Kinilaw na Isda, & the sweet potato sticks.  We also tried their Sinigang na Sugpo. Happy Tummy!
Please take note that you should call their BATODA for tricycle services.

  You should make reservations at restaurants.  
Some do not allow walk-ins. 

Globe signal is very weak in Batanes.  
Smart sim card is highly recommended.

And let’s call it a Day!  
Dios Mamajes, Batanes!     

Day2 
Rise & Shine! Uh-ooh... Weather was not cooperative.  
We had a gloomy sky and strong waves.  We cancelled our Sabtang Tour and re-scheduled it.  My girls were not feeling well.  It was an advantage that “my schedule” had passed.   I had no worries because sanitary napkins are bulky to bring.  We had the morning snuggling our blankets and getting enough rest for we did not have enough sleep because of the early flight.

Since grumpiness sets in that day, we had all meals at Amboy’s. Their Kare-Kare and Beef Steak were good.  But you should definitely try their Grilled Marlin. We also tried their sweet potato cookies.
We had early snacks at Cafe deTukon and met up our supposedly tour group, who had been to Sabtang.  They were also there for snacks. They look so tired.  They said the waves were big that some of them got dizzy and nauseous.  Hoping to have a nice weather by Thursday for our Sabtang Overnight Tour. 

At Cafe de Tukon, we ordered their best-selling pizza & ice teas.  And made our lunch reservation for my BIG day.
After snacks, we went to Basco town proper to look for bike rentals. Since the weather was not so good yesterday, we want to go back to the Lighthouse with our bikes.  We end up at Mataw Bicycle & Souvenir Shop, just beside DDD Habitat Lodge.  Their mountain bikes are P75 per hour while Japan bikes are P50 per hour.  It was a good weather for biking and so we went rolling to the plaza, cathedral, and the lighthouse.  It was Awesome to have the lighthouse all to ourselves.  We explored even the back area of the Naidi Hill Complex.  We missed to see it yesterday since we are conscious of our time because we are in a joined group. So glad we came back!

Back to Amboy’s Hometel at 7:30 PM.  It is going to be a looong day for the South Batan Tour.












Here is a list of establishments you may want or need to contact for the North Batan Tour.



Establishment: Amboy’s Hometel
Contact Person : Ms. Glaiza Galat
Contact Number : 09396438982
E-mail address : amboy_hometel@yahoo.com
Establishment: Bisumi Tours & Services
Contact Person : Mr. Lex Akani
Contact Number : 09192795963
E-mail address :  ryan.batanes@gmail.com

Establishment: Pension Ivatan
Contact Number : 09088659675
E-mail address : pensionivatan@yahoo.com
Establishment: Cafe de Tukon
Contact Number : 09399016353
E-mail address : fundacionpacita50@gmail.com
Establishment: Mataw Bicycle & Souvenir Shop
Contact Number : 09999436137


Hotlines:
BATODA - 09297038404
Basco Police Station - 09391987887
Batanes General Hospital - 09999907567


Please watch out for my next blog for the details and itinerary on our South Batan Tour.